Hublot

In 1980 a new watch appeared at the Basel fair that seemed to break the rules: a gold case shaped like a ship's porthole, fixed with visible screws, on a strap of natural rubber. Traditionalists were not sure what to make of it. Today that idea, bringing unlikely materials together, is the signature of Hublot, and the house has become one of the most recognisable names in contemporary watchmaking. This guide introduces Hublot, its collections and what our specialists look at in a pre-owned piece.

Key facts

Founded	1980
Founder	Carlo Crocco
Name	French for "porthole"
Headquarters	Nyon, Switzerland
Signature details	Porthole bezel with H-shaped screws, rubber straps, "art of fusion" of materials
Icons	Classic Fusion, Big Bang, Spirit of Big Bang, Square Bang
Materials	Steel, titanium, 18k King Gold, Magic Gold, ceramic, sapphire, carbon

A short history

Carlo Crocco, from the Italian family behind the Binda watch group, founded Hublot in 1980. His first watch, with its porthole case and rubber strap, was a quiet revolution: rubber, until then, had no place in luxury watchmaking. Making a rubber strap that was comfortable and durable took years of development.

In 2004 Jean-Claude Biver joined the house and, in 2005, introduced the Big Bang, a larger, layered chronograph that combined materials such as ceramic, gold and rubber in a single case. Its success transformed Hublot. The house developed its own manufacture movements, including the Unico chronograph, and its own materials, including Magic Gold, a scratch-resistant gold, and coloured sapphire cases. The Classic Fusion, introduced in 2008, revisited the slim, elegant spirit of the original watch.

The watches most often asked about

• Classic Fusion: the refined line, closest to the original design, in many sizes and materials. We currently have a Classic Fusion automatic with a black dial on a rubber strap.
• Big Bang: the bold, layered sports watch of 2005, in many versions including the Unico chronograph.
• Spirit of Big Bang: a tonneau-shaped case.
• Square Bang: a square interpretation.
• MP collection: experimental, technically ambitious pieces.

Materials

Hublot's "art of fusion" is about materials. Titanium is light and strong. King Gold is a red gold alloy with added platinum. Magic Gold combines gold with ceramic for scratch resistance. Ceramic is hard, light and colourful. Sapphire cases are transparent and extraordinarily hard. Each material changes how a watch looks, feels and wears.

Straps

Rubber remains central to Hublot. Many models use a rubber strap, sometimes lined or covered in leather or fabric, and recent models use a quick-change system that makes swapping straps easy. Our listings note the strap and buckle and whether additional straps are included.

Choosing a pre-owned Hublot

Start with the collection. The Classic Fusion is the quieter, more versatile choice; the Big Bang is larger and more assertive. Next, consider size: Classic Fusion models range from around 33 mm to 45 mm, and Big Bangs are typically 42 to 44 mm or more. Then think about material. Titanium is light, gold weighty and warm, and ceramic hard and dark.

Finally, look at condition. Bezels and polished surfaces show marks with wear, and rubber straps can age over time. Our listings describe case, bezel, crystal and strap condition precisely, and note what comes with the watch.

What we look at in a pre-owned Hublot

Our watch specialists examine:

1. Case and bezel: finish, materials and the H-shaped screws.
2. Dial: printing, markers and hands.
3. Reference and serial: consistent with the case, dial and movement.
4. Strap and buckle: material, fit and consistency with the model.
5. Movement: calibre and function, where appropriate.

Read how we authenticate.

Caring for a Hublot

• Follow the house's recommended service intervals.
• Have water resistance tested periodically.
• Rinse rubber straps in fresh water after swimming and let them dry naturally.
• Keep ceramic and sapphire away from hard knocks, which can chip them.
• Store your watch away from strong magnets.

Hublot in a collection

Hublot often sits alongside more traditional watches in a collection, and that contrast is part of its charm. A Classic Fusion on rubber can be the watch for weekends, travel and summer, while a Big Bang makes a statement on evenings out. The house's openness to materials means two Hublots can feel entirely different on the wrist: titanium almost weightless, gold dense and warm, ceramic cool and smooth. When choosing, it can help to think about what your other watches do, and what this one would add.

The language of Hublot

Art of fusion describes combining unexpected materials. King Gold and Magic Gold are Hublot gold alloys. Unico is the house's in-house chronograph movement. Porthole is the round bezel design. Our glossary explains more.

Hublot at Encore Luxe

See our Hublot page for watches currently available.

Related: Audemars Piguet · TAG Heuer · Omega

Encore Luxe is an independent retailer and is not affiliated with Hublot.