Guides
Guides
Buying pre-loved luxury is a pleasure that rewards knowledge. Knowing why a Kelly is stitched the way it is, how a Rolex Datejust has changed over seven decades, or what a jeweller means by "VS1" turns a purchase into a considered choice. These guides gather what our specialists have learned from handling the pieces that pass through our studio, written for people who would like to understand what they are buying as well as admire it.
Where to begin
The houses: short histories of Hermès, Chanel, Louis Vuitton, Rolex, Cartier, Gucci, Tiffany & Co., Omega, Mulberry and Bottega Veneta. They cover each house's signatures, materials and the pieces most often asked about.
The icons: model-by-model guides to the bags, watches and jewels that define their houses, from the Chanel Classic Flap and Hermès Birkin to the Cartier Love bracelet and the Omega Seamaster. Each includes a key-facts table, sizes, materials and notes on caring for the piece.
Authentication: how our specialists approach authentication, and what we look at on the pieces that are most often copied. These guides explain our process. They are not do-it-yourself checklists, and they are no replacement for an inspection by a specialist.
Condition: what our condition grades mean, and the precise terms we use on every listing, so that a piece arrives exactly as you expected.
Glossary: leathers, hardware, metals, stones and movements, defined plainly.
Questions: answers on authentication, delivery, returns and visiting us.
How we write them
Every guide is drawn from first-hand inspection rather than from catalogues. We describe materials and construction as they appear on real pieces, note where houses have changed details over the years, and say so where something varies. These guides are about the pieces themselves: how they are made, how they wear and how to look after them.
If there is something you would like us to cover, our client team is always glad to hear from you.
Encore Luxe is an independent retailer of authenticated pre-loved luxury and is not affiliated with any of the houses featured.
All guides in this section
- How we authenticate pre-loved Bottega Veneta
What our specialists check on a pre-loved Bottega Veneta bag: the intrecciato weave, leather, edges, stitching, hardware, interior stamps and labels. - How to authenticate a Cartier Juste un Clou
What our specialists check on a pre-loved Cartier Juste un Clou bracelet, ring or earrings: proportions, head and tip, hinge, engravings, metal and pavé. - How to authenticate a Cartier Love bracelet
What our specialists check on a pre-loved Cartier Love bracelet: screw motifs, fastening, hallmarks, serial, engravings, weight, metal and finish. - How to authenticate a Chanel Classic Flap
What our specialists check on a pre-loved Chanel Classic Flap: quilting, stitch count, CC lock, serial stickers, microchips and the details copies miss. - How we authenticate pre-loved Gucci
What our specialists check on pre-loved Gucci bags, belts and small leather goods: canvas, leather, stitching, hardware, heat stamps and serial tags. - How to authenticate a Hermès Birkin
What our specialists check on a pre-loved Hermès Birkin: saddle stitching, heat stamp, blindstamp, hardware, clochette, lock and keys, and leather. - Hermès blindstamps explained
How Hermès marks the year a bag was made, where to find the blindstamp, and why our specialists treat it as one clue among many when authenticating. - How to authenticate a Hermès Kelly
What our specialists check on a pre-loved Hermès Kelly: Sellier vs Retourne construction, saddle stitching, stamps, turn-lock, handle and leather. - How we authenticate
The process every pre-loved bag, watch and jewel goes through at Encore Luxe, from first handling to final specialist review. - Louis Vuitton date codes and microchips
How to read a Louis Vuitton date code, where to find it, what replaced it in 2021, and why our specialists treat codes as one clue among many. - How to authenticate a Louis Vuitton Speedy
What our specialists check on a pre-loved Louis Vuitton Speedy: canvas pattern, vachetta, stitching, heat stamp, hardware, zip and date code or chip. - How we authenticate a pre-owned Omega
What our watch specialists check on a pre-owned Omega: case and serial, dial, hands, bezel, bracelet, movement and calibre, and paperwork. - How we authenticate a pre-owned Rolex
What our watch specialists check on a pre-owned Rolex: case, serial and reference, dial, crystal and Cyclops, bracelet and clasp, and movement. - How we authenticate Tiffany & Co. jewellery
What our specialists check on pre-loved Tiffany & Co. jewellery: hallmarks and signatures, metal, stones, settings, clasps and engravings. - Audemars Piguet
The history, craft and icons of Audemars Piguet, from the Royal Oak to the Code 11.59, and what our specialists look at in a pre-owned watch. - Balenciaga
The history, silhouettes and bags of Balenciaga, from Cristóbal Balenciaga's couture to the City and Hourglass, and what to look for pre-loved. - Bottega Veneta
The history, intrecciato weave and icons of Bottega Veneta, from the Cabat and Knot to the Jodie and Cassette, and what to look for pre-loved. - Cartier
The history, signatures and icons of Cartier, from the Tank and Santos to the Love bracelet and Juste un Clou, and what to look for pre-loved. - Chanel
The history, signatures and materials of Chanel, from the 2.55 and Classic Flap to the Boy bag and J12, and what to look for in a pre-loved piece. - De Beers
The story, collections and craft of De Beers jewellery, from solitaires to platinum wedding bands, and what our specialists check pre-loved. - Gucci
The history, signatures and icons of Gucci, from the Bamboo and Horsebit to the Jackie and GG Marmont, and what to look for in pre-loved Gucci. - Hermès
The history, leathers and signatures of Hermès, from the Kelly and Birkin to the Constance — and what to look for in a pre-loved piece. By Encore Luxe. - Hublot
The history, materials and icons of Hublot, from the 1980 gold-on-rubber original to the Big Bang and Classic Fusion, and what to look for pre-owned. - Loewe
The history, craft and icons of Loewe, from the Amazona and Puzzle to the Flamenco and Basket bag, and what our specialists look at pre-loved. - Loro Piana
The story, fibres and icons of Loro Piana, from baby cashmere and vicuña to the Open Walk and Summer Walk, and what our specialists check pre-loved. - Louis Vuitton
The history, canvases and icons of Louis Vuitton, from trunks to the Speedy, Neverfull and Alma, and what to look for in a pre-loved piece. - Messika
The story, collections and craft of Messika, the Parisian diamond house behind Move, Joy and Skinny, and what our specialists check pre-loved. - Mulberry
The history, leathers and icons of Mulberry, from the Bayswater and Alexa to the Lily, and what to look for in a pre-loved Mulberry bag. - Omega
The history, innovations and icons of Omega, from the Speedmaster and Seamaster to the Constellation and De Ville, and what to look for pre-owned. - Raymond Weil
The history, collections and character of Raymond Weil, the family-run Geneva watchmaker behind the Tango, Freelancer and Maestro. - Rolex
The history, innovations and icons of Rolex, from the Oyster case and Perpetual rotor to the Datejust and Submariner, and what to look for pre-owned. - TAG Heuer
The history, innovations and icons of TAG Heuer, from Edouard Heuer's 1860 workshop to the Carrera, Monaco and Aquaracer, and what to look for pre-owned. - Tiffany & Co.
The history, designers and icons of Tiffany & Co., from the Tiffany Setting to Schlumberger and Elsa Peretti, and what to look for pre-loved. - Versace
The history, signatures and icons of Versace, from Gianni Versace's Medusa and Baroque prints to Versace Jeans Couture, and what to look for pre-loved. - Buying
Practical buying guides for pre-loved luxury in the UK: how to buy safely, a pre-owned watch checklist, box and papers, and diamond grading reports. - Box and papers explained
What "box and papers", "full set" and "watch only" mean for pre-owned watches, bags and jewellery, what each document is for and why none proves authenticity. - How to read a diamond grading report
A clear guide to diamond grading reports and the 4Cs: carat, colour, clarity and cut, fancy coloured diamonds, fluorescence and girdle inscriptions. - How to buy pre-owned luxury safely
A practical checklist for buying pre-loved designer bags, watches and jewellery in the UK: authentication, condition, photographs, payment and returns. - Buying a pre-owned luxury watch: a checklist
What to check before buying a pre-owned Rolex, Omega, Audemars Piguet or other luxury watch: references, movement, service history, case and bracelet. - Care
How to look after pre-loved luxury: storage, cleaning and servicing for leather handbags, watches, fine jewellery and suede shoes, from our specialists. - How to care for fine jewellery
How to clean, store and look after gold, platinum, silver and diamond jewellery at home, and when a jeweller should check claws and clasps. - How to care for a designer leather handbag
Everyday care for luxury leather bags: storage, stuffing, dust bags, rain, handles, corners, hardware and when to leave a repair to a specialist. - Caring for a luxury watch
How to look after an automatic or quartz luxury watch: winding, servicing intervals, water resistance, magnetism, straps, bracelets and storage. - How to care for designer suede shoes
How to protect, brush, clean, dry and store luxury suede loafers and shoes, from Loro Piana to Gucci, without damaging the nap. - How we grade condition
Our four condition grades explained, with exactly what we look at on bags, watches and jewellery, and how we describe and photograph every sign of wear. - The Audemars Piguet Code 11.59
The Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 explained: its 2019 debut, the octagonal middle case, double-curved crystal, open lugs, references, movements and care. - The Balenciaga Hourglass
The Balenciaga Hourglass explained: the curved base inspired by couture tailoring, the B hardware, sizes from XS to small and how to care for one. - The Bottega Veneta Cassette
The Bottega Veneta Cassette explained: the house's intrecciato weave, the padded version, how it is carried crossbody and how to care for woven leather. - Cartier Juste un Clou
Cartier's Juste un Clou explained: the 1970s nail bracelet by Aldo Cipullo, its 2012 relaunch, bracelets, rings, earrings, sizes, metals and care. - The Cartier Love bracelet
The Cartier Love bracelet explained: Aldo Cipullo's 1969 design, the screw closure, classic and small models, metals, sizing and how to care for one. - Cartier Love and Juste un Clou bracelet sizing
How Cartier Love and Juste un Clou bracelets are sized, how to measure your wrist at home, classic versus small models and how each should fit. - The Chanel Boy bag
The Chanel Boy bag explained: its 2011 debut, the Boy clasp, sizes from small to large, leathers, hardware and how to care for one. - The Chanel Classic Flap
The Chanel Classic Flap explained: its origins in the 2.55, the sizes from mini to maxi, caviar and lambskin, hardware, and how to care for it. - The Gucci GG Marmont
The Gucci GG Marmont explained: its 2016 debut under Alessandro Michele, the Double G hardware, matelassé chevron leather, sizes and care. - The Hermès Birkin
The Hermès Birkin explained: its 1984 origin with Jane Birkin, sizes 25 to 40, Togo, Epsom and other leathers, hardware, and how to care for one. - Hermès Birkin vs Kelly
Birkin or Kelly? How the two Hermès icons differ in handles, closure, sizes, construction and everyday wear, and how to choose between them. - The Hermès Constance
The Hermès Constance explained: its 1959 origins, the H clasp, sizes from Mini to Elan, leathers, hardware and how to care for one. - The Hermès Kelly
The Hermès Kelly explained: its origins as the sac à dépêches, Grace Kelly, Sellier and Retourne construction, sizes, leathers and care. - The Hermès Kelly To Go
The Hermès Kelly To Go explained: a wallet on a strap with the Kelly turn-lock, leathers such as Chèvre and Epsom, and how to wear and care for it. - The Hublot Classic Fusion
The Hublot Classic Fusion explained: Carlo Crocco's porthole case and rubber strap, the art of fusion, sizes, materials and how to care for one. - The Loewe Basket bag
The Loewe Basket bag explained: woven palm leaf and calfskin, Loewe's 1846 Madrid heritage, sizes from small to large, how to carry it and how to care for it. - The Louis Vuitton Neverfull
The Louis Vuitton Neverfull explained: its 2007 debut, PM, MM and GM sizes, side laces, pouch, Monogram and Damier canvases, and how to care for it. - The Louis Vuitton Speedy
The Louis Vuitton Speedy explained: its 1930 origins as the Express, Monogram and Damier canvases, sizes, the Bandoulière, vachetta and care. - The Messika Move collection
The Messika Move collection explained: Valérie Messika's moving diamonds, Move Uno and Move Classique, pavé settings, wearing and caring for them. - The Mulberry Alexa
The Mulberry Alexa explained: the 2010 satchel named after Alexa Chung, its postman's lock, Somerset craftsmanship, Oak and buffalo leathers and care. - The Omega Seamaster
The Omega Seamaster explained: its 1948 debut, the Diver 300M, Aqua Terra, Ploprof and Planet Ocean, movements, sizes and how to care for one. - The Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra
The Omega Aqua Terra explained: its 2002 launch, teak-pattern dials, sizes from 28 to 41 mm, quartz and Co-Axial versions and who it suits. - The Omega Seamaster Ploprof
The Omega Ploprof explained: the 1970 600m professional diver, the 1200m revival, its monobloc case, locking bezel, helium valve and how to wear one. - The Rolex Datejust
The Rolex Datejust explained: its 1945 debut, the Cyclops date, 31, 36 and 41 mm cases, Jubilee and Oyster bracelets, fluted bezels and care. - Rolex Datejust references explained
A plain guide to Rolex Datejust reference numbers: what the digits mean, the main generations from the 1601 to today, and what changed in each. - The Rolex Submariner
The Rolex Submariner explained: its 1953 origins, date and no-date models, bezels, cases, bracelets, water resistance and how to care for one. - The TAG Heuer Carrera
The TAG Heuer Carrera explained: Jack Heuer's 1963 design, the Carrera Panamericana name, chronographs and three-hand automatics, dials and sizes. - Return to Tiffany
Tiffany & Co.'s Return to Tiffany explained: the 1969 key ring, heart and round tags, bracelets and necklaces, sterling silver and gold, sizing and care. - The Tiffany Setting
The Tiffany Setting explained: the 1886 six-prong design, why it lifts the diamond, platinum, ring sizing in the UK and pairing it with a wedding band. - Comparisons
Side-by-side comparisons of iconic luxury pieces, from Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels jewellery to Rolex watches, to help you choose with confidence.
Questions we’re often asked
- Who writes the Encore Luxe guides?
Our guides are written by the specialists who inspect every piece in our UK studio, and are reviewed by Encore Luxe Authentication before publication. Each guide shows the date it was last updated.
- Can a guide tell me whether my bag is genuine?
No. Our guides explain what specialists look at, but they are not a substitute for an inspection in person. Every piece we offer has been authenticated by our team before it is listed.
- Do you publish new guides regularly?
Yes. We add new house, model and care guides throughout the year, and revisit existing guides when a house changes its stamps, materials or construction.