How to care for designer suede shoes

Suede is leather with its inner surface brushed to a soft nap. That is why it feels so good and why it marks so easily. The good news is that suede is far more forgiving than its reputation suggests. With a brush, an eraser and a few habits, a pair of fine suede loafers will look right for years.

Before the first wear

Apply a protector made specifically for suede, in a well-ventilated space, holding the can at the distance the maker recommends. Let it dry fully, ideally overnight, before wearing. Test it first on the inside of the heel or another hidden area, as some sprays slightly darken some colours. Reapply every few months, or after cleaning.

Brushing

A suede brush is the single most useful tool. Use it after every few wears:

1. Make sure the shoes are completely dry.
2. Brush lightly in one direction to lift dust and restore the nap.
3. For flattened or shiny areas, brush back and forth gently to raise the fibres.

A brush with brass or nylon bristles on one side and crepe rubber on the other covers most needs. The crepe side is gentler and suits fine suedes such as those used by Loro Piana.

Marks and stains

Dry dirt brushes away. Let mud dry completely before brushing it off; wiping wet mud pushes it into the nap.

Scuffs and light marks respond to a suede eraser, rubbed gently, followed by brushing.

Water marks can often be evened out by lightly dampening the whole panel with a clean, barely damp cloth, so it dries uniformly, then stuffing the shoe and letting it dry naturally.

Oil and grease are the hardest. Cover the mark at once with a little cornflour or talc, leave it for several hours to draw out the oil, then brush away. Leave anything stubborn to a specialist cleaner.

Avoid household cleaners, soap and hot water, which can stain suede permanently.

Rain

If you are caught in rain, blot the shoes with a dry cloth, stuff them with plain paper (not newspaper, which transfers ink), and let them dry at room temperature, away from radiators. Heat makes suede stiff and brittle. When they are dry, brush the nap back up.

Soles and structure

Loafers with rubber soles, like the Loro Piana Open Walk loafers in our shop, can have the soles wiped clean with a damp cloth, keeping water off the suede. Leather soles benefit from a cobbler's protective sole when new. Rotate pairs where you can, so each has a day to dry out between wears.

Storage

Use shoe trees, ideally cedar, which hold the shape and absorb moisture. Store the shoes in breathable cotton bags, never plastic, away from sunlight, which fades suede. Keep pale suede away from dark shoes and fabrics to avoid colour transfer.

Sizing pre-owned shoes

Designer shoe sizing varies between houses and between European, UK and US systems, and a worn pair will have shaped slightly to its previous owner. When we list shoes we state the size marked inside and describe the condition of the uppers, lining and soles in writing. If you are unsure, ask us for measurements before you buy.

Read our Loro Piana guide, our leather handbag care guide, or browse shoes in our shop.