How we grade condition

A condition grade is a promise. When you buy a pre-loved piece without holding it first, the grade and the notes beneath it are how you know what will arrive. We take that seriously. Every piece is examined in good light and under magnification, graded by a specialist and then checked by a second pair of eyes before it is listed. This guide explains our four grades, what we look at for each type of piece, and the words we use to describe what we find.

The four grades

New

Unused. No signs of wear at all. Protective films and plastic on hardware are often still in place, and the piece may come with its original packaging. If a piece is unused but has been stored or displayed in a way that has left any trace, such as a faint impression from a strap or slight fading from light, it is not graded New.

Excellent

Carried or worn very little. Any signs of use are faint and visible only on close inspection: perhaps the lightest micro-scratches on hardware, or a barely relaxed handle. Corners are clean, the shape is as it should be, and the interior is fresh.

Very good

Gently used, with light and honest wear that does not affect how the piece looks from a normal distance or how it works. Typical notes might include softened corners, light scratches to hardware, faint marks to the interior, a slightly relaxed shape or light wear to a watch bracelet clasp. Most pre-loved pieces fall within Excellent or Very good.

Good

Visible wear consistent with regular use. This might include rubbing to corners, darkening to handles, scratches to hardware, interior marks or a softened structure. Everything is described and photographed, and the piece is fully functional. Good condition pieces are honest everyday companions, and many people prefer the character they carry.

What we look at on bags

• Corners: the first place a bag shows use. We note rubbing, scuffing or colour loss, and which corners are affected.
• Edges and piping: painted edges (glazing) can crack or lift. We note any wear or any touch-up we can see.
• Handles and straps: darkening, cracking, loss of shape or creasing where a strap folds.
• Leather surfaces: scratches, marks, pen marks, water spots, creasing on lambskin, and whether the grain is even.
• Shape: whether the bag stands as it should, and whether it has relaxed, slouched or lost structure.
• Hardware: scratches, plating wear, tarnish, and whether locks, clasps, zips and turn-locks work smoothly.
• Interior: marks, stains, odour, lining wear and the condition of pockets.
• Inclusions: dust bag, box, lock and keys, clochette, strap, rain cover, cards and receipts.

What we look at on watches

• Case: scratches, dents and polishing. A heavily polished case can lose its original lines, and we note where this has happened.
• Bracelet or strap: stretch between links, clasp wear, and the number of links or spare links included.
• Crystal: scratches or chips.
• Dial and hands: marks, patina, ageing of luminous material, and whether hands and dial appear original to the watch, so far as we can tell.
• Bezel: function and insert wear.
• Movement: whether the watch runs, keeps time within reasonable expectations for its type and age, and any known service history.
• Inclusions: box, papers, warranty cards, service receipts and spare links.

What we look at on jewellery

• Surface: scratches, dents and wear to engraving or texture.
• Stones: security of settings, chips or abrasions, and any missing stones.
• Clasps and fittings: whether they close securely.
• Hallmarks and signatures: whether they are present and legible.
• Sizing: whether a ring has been resized, where this can be seen.
• Inclusions: box, pouch, certificates and receipts.

The language we use

We try to be precise rather than reassuring. "Light scratches" means scratches visible in good light at close range. "Visible scratches" means scratches you will see in normal wear. "Rubbing" means surface wear that has removed sheen or colour in a small area. "Relaxed" means a bag has softened in shape but not collapsed. If something cannot be captured in a word, we photograph it.

What we will always disclose

• Repairs, re-colouring, re-glazing, re-plating or polishing we are aware of.
• Replacement parts on watches, where we can identify them.
• Odours, including smoke and perfume.
• Missing items that would normally accompany the piece.
• Anything that affects use, however small.

A final word on wear

Fine materials are made to be used, and many age beautifully. Vachetta leather deepens to honey, box calf takes on a glow, and gold softens at the edges. Our grades are not a judgement of how desirable a piece is, only an accurate account of how it has lived. If you would like more photographs, or to see a piece in person, our client team will gladly help.

Related: Condition hub · How we authenticate · Glossary