What is the difference between the Chanel Classic Flap and the 2.55?

The 2.55, introduced in February 1955, has a rectangular Mademoiselle lock and an all-metal chain. The Classic Flap, reference 11.12, was introduced under Karl Lagerfeld in the 1980s with the interlocking CC turn-lock and a chain woven with leather.

What sizes does the Chanel Classic Flap come in?

The main sizes are the Mini (rectangular and square), Small, Medium/Large (often called the 11.12), Jumbo and Maxi. Proportions and capacity increase with each.

Is caviar or lambskin better for a Chanel Classic Flap?

Caviar is grained, structured and more resistant to scratches, which suits everyday use. Lambskin is softer with a gentle sheen but marks more easily. The choice depends on how often the bag will be carried.

Can the Classic Flap be worn on the shoulder?

Yes. The chain can be worn doubled on the shoulder or as a single, longer strap across the body or on the shoulder, depending on the size.

Models

The Chanel Classic Flap

By the Encore Luxe specialists · Updated October 2026

If one bag defines Chanel, it is the Classic Flap. Quilted leather, a woven chain, a turn-lock of two interlocking Cs: the design is so familiar that it is easy to forget how deliberate each element is. This guide traces the bag from its origins to the present day, explains the sizes and materials you will meet, and suggests how to care for one.

Key facts


Reference	A01112 (Medium/Large), often called "11.12"
Predecessor	The 2.55, February 1955
Classic Flap introduced	1980s, under Karl Lagerfeld
Signature details	Diamond quilting, CC turn-lock, chain woven with leather, double flap
Common leathers	Caviar, lambskin; also patent, tweed, jersey and exotics
Hardware	Gold-tone, silver-tone, ruthenium and others, by season
Sizes	Mini (rectangular and square), Small, Medium/Large, Jumbo, Maxi

From the 2.55 to the Classic Flap

Gabrielle Chanel introduced her quilted shoulder bag in February 1955, which is where the name 2.55 comes from. It was radical for its time: a shoulder strap freed a woman's hands. The original had a rectangular clasp, later known as the Mademoiselle lock, and a chain of metal alone. Its quilting is said to have been inspired by the jackets of stable lads, its burgundy lining by convent uniforms, and its chain by the chatelaines that held keys.

In the 1980s Karl Lagerfeld reworked the design. He replaced the rectangular clasp with the interlocking CC turn-lock and wove leather through the chain. That bag, the Classic Flap, became the house's best-known design, while the 2.55 continued in reissue form alongside it.

The anatomy of the bag

Quilting: diamond quilting (matelassé) gives the bag its structure and softness. On a well-made bag, the quilting aligns across the front, the flap and the back pocket.
Double flap: most Classic Flaps have an inner flap as well as an outer one, giving extra security and structure. Some larger sizes have been made with a single flap.
CC turn-lock: the interlocking Cs on the front flap, turned to open.
Chain: a metal chain woven with leather, which can be worn doubled on the shoulder or extended.
Back pocket: a slip pocket on the back, often nicknamed the "Mona Lisa" pocket for its gentle, smile-shaped curve.
Interior: a leather lining, often burgundy on black bags, with a zip pocket on the inner flap and slip pockets inside, including a lipstick pocket.

Sizes

The Classic Flap is made in a range of sizes, each with its own character.

Mini (rectangular and square): evening and occasion bags, worn across the body on a single chain.
Small: compact, with enough room for essentials.
Medium/Large (11.12): the archetypal Classic Flap, versatile day to evening.
Jumbo: larger and more relaxed, introduced in the 2000s for a more modern scale.
Maxi: the largest of the core sizes, with a single flap on many versions.

Exact dimensions vary slightly with season and leather, so each Encore Luxe listing gives the measurements of the bag itself.

Leathers and hardware

Caviar is a pebbled, grained calfskin, durable and scratch-resistant, with a structured feel. Lambskin is soft, with a gentle sheen and a luxurious hand, but it shows marks and scuffs more readily. Chanel also makes the Classic Flap seasonally in patent leather, tweed, jersey, denim and exotic skins.

Hardware has been made in gold tone, silver tone, ruthenium and other finishes, depending on the season. Vintage bags from the 1980s and 1990s often have 24-carat gold-plated hardware, which has a particular warmth.

Dating a Classic Flap

Bags made until 2021 carry a serial sticker inside, and from 2021 Chanel has used microchips. The serial helps our specialists place a bag in its era, and we cross-check it with the bag's construction and hardware. See our Classic Flap authentication guide.

Wearing the Classic Flap

Part of the bag's longevity is its versatility. Worn doubled on the shoulder, the Medium is a day bag; extended across the body, it becomes hands-free; held by the chain as a clutch, it suits evening. The Mini works beautifully with tailoring and as a contrast to more relaxed clothes.

Caring for a Classic Flap

Store the bag upright, lightly stuffed with acid-free paper, in its dust bag and away from direct light.
Do not hang it by its chain, which can stretch or mark the leather where the chain rests.
Keep lambskin away from rough surfaces and jewellery, and away from rain.
Caviar is more forgiving, but avoid oils and lotions on the leather.
Wrap the hardware in a soft cloth when storing so it does not scratch the flap.
For cleaning or restoration, consult a specialist.

Questions we hear about the Classic Flap

Clients often ask whether vintage and modern bags differ. They do, in small ways: hardware plating, chain weight, leather finishes and interior details have evolved over the decades. Neither is better. Vintage bags often have softer leather and warmer hardware; modern bags are often more structured.

Encore Luxe is an independent retailer and is not affiliated with Chanel.

Questions we’re often asked

What is the difference between the Chanel Classic Flap and the 2.55?: The 2.55, introduced in February 1955, has a rectangular Mademoiselle lock and an all-metal chain. The Classic Flap, reference 11.12, was introduced under Karl Lagerfeld in the 1980s with the interlocking CC turn-lock and a chain woven with leather.
What sizes does the Chanel Classic Flap come in?: The main sizes are the Mini (rectangular and square), Small, Medium/Large (often called the 11.12), Jumbo and Maxi. Proportions and capacity increase with each.
Is caviar or lambskin better for a Chanel Classic Flap?: Caviar is grained, structured and more resistant to scratches, which suits everyday use. Lambskin is softer with a gentle sheen but marks more easily. The choice depends on how often the bag will be carried.
Can the Classic Flap be worn on the shoulder?: Yes. The chain can be worn doubled on the shoulder or as a single, longer strap across the body or on the shoulder, depending on the size.