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How to authenticate a Cartier Love bracelet

By the Encore Luxe specialists · Reviewed by Encore Luxe Authentication · Updated October 2026

Designed by Aldo Cipullo for Cartier in New York in 1969, the Love bracelet is a deceptively simple design: an oval of gold, closed with screws, decorated with screw-head motifs. Because it is so simple, every detail matters, and any copy has to get proportions, weight and engravings exactly right. Our specialists examine each Love bracelet as a piece of fine jewellery and check that every element agrees. This guide explains our approach.

For general information only. Please have any Love bracelet authenticated by a specialist.

1. Weight and metal

A genuine Love bracelet is made of solid 18-carat gold (yellow, white or rose) or platinum on some versions. It is noticeably weighty for its size. We weigh each bracelet and consider the result against what we expect for its size and model, and we test the metal where appropriate. The colour should be even and correct for the alloy. Cartier's rose gold, for example, has a particular warmth.

2. Shape and proportion

The bracelet is a precise oval, designed to sit close to the wrist. The two halves should meet seamlessly and sit flush. The classic model and the small model have different widths, and diamond versions differ again. We check that proportions match the stated model and size.

3. Screw motifs

The screw-head motifs around the bracelet are engraved or applied with precision. On the classic model the spacing is regular and the slots align consistently. On diamond versions, the stones replace some motifs. We look closely at the depth, edges and evenness of the slots under magnification.

4. Fastening

The original Love bracelet closes with two functional screws, using a small screwdriver supplied with the bracelet. Cartier has refined the fastening over the years, and more recent versions use a different screw system. We check that the fastening is consistent with the bracelet's era, that the screws turn smoothly and hold securely, and that the screwdriver, if present, matches.

5. Interior engravings

The inside of a genuine Love bracelet carries crisp, precise engraving. Depending on era, this includes:

  • The Cartier signature and copyright mark.
  • The metal mark (for example, Au 750).
  • The size.
  • A unique serial number.
  • The country of manufacture and other marks, depending on era.

We look at font, spacing, depth and alignment. The serial should be cleanly engraved and consistent in style with the other marks.

6. Hallmarks

Depending on where and when a bracelet was made and sold, it may carry hallmarks such as a French eagle's head or a UK assay mark. We check these for consistency with the other markings.

7. Finish

The polished surfaces should be bright and even, with crisp edges. On well-worn bracelets, softened edges and fine scratches are normal. We distinguish honest wear from a poor original finish, and note any refinishing or re-polishing we can see.

8. Diamonds and stones

On versions set with diamonds or other stones, we check the quality of the stones and settings, their security and the consistency of the setting style with genuine pieces.

9. Size

Love bracelets are sized by inner circumference in centimetres. We check that the engraved size agrees with the measured bracelet.

10. Box, screwdriver and certificate

These are noted but never treated as proof.

What we do

Every Cartier piece we offer has been examined by our specialists in our UK studio. If we are not certain, we do not list it.

Why the details matter on a simple design

The Love bracelet has very few elements: two halves, a set of motifs, two screws and an inscription. That simplicity leaves nowhere for a poor copy to hide, but it also means a good copy can look convincing at a glance. Our specialists therefore spend as long on a Love bracelet as on a far more complex jewel. We consider weight, metal, proportion, motif spacing, the fit of the halves, the action of the screws and the inscription together, and we compare them with genuine references of the same model, size and era. When something does not agree, we find out why before going further. A replaced screw after a repair, for example, is very different from a bracelet that was never right.

Read next: The Cartier Love bracelet guide · Cartier house guide · How we authenticate

This guide is for general information and is not a substitute for professional authentication. Encore Luxe is an independent retailer and is not affiliated with Cartier.

Questions we’re often asked

How can I tell if a Cartier Love bracelet is real?

A specialist checks the weight and metal, the precision of the screw motifs and fastening, and that the engravings, hallmarks and serial are crisp and consistent with the bracelet's era and size. All of these must agree.

Does a Cartier Love bracelet have a serial number?

Yes. Genuine Love bracelets carry a unique serial number engraved on the inside, alongside the Cartier signature, metal mark and size.

Is a certificate proof that a Love bracelet is genuine?

No. Certificates and boxes are copied and can become separated from the bracelet. We authenticate the bracelet itself.

Are there different versions of the Love bracelet?

Yes. There is the classic and the small model, versions with diamonds or other stones, and versions with different fastenings over the years. We check that each feature suits the version.