Cartier

Edward VII is said to have called Cartier "the jeweller of kings and the king of jewellers". The house earned the description over generations: it designed tiaras for royal houses, the first modern men's wristwatch for an aviator, and some of the most recognisable jewellery of the twentieth century. Through it all runs a clarity of line that makes a Cartier piece recognisable at a glance. This guide introduces the house, its icons and what our specialists look at in a pre-loved Cartier piece.

Key facts

Founded	1847, Paris
Founder	Louis-François Cartier
Signature motifs	Panthère, screw motifs, Trinity's three golds, Roman numerals and blued hands on watches
Jewellery icons	Love, Juste un Clou, Trinity, Panthère, Clash, Ecrou
Watch icons	Tank, Santos, Ballon Bleu, Panthère, Pasha
Leather goods	Must de Cartier

A short history

Louis-François Cartier took over his master's Paris workshop in 1847. Under his grandsons, Louis, Pierre and Jacques, Cartier became an international house, with branches in Paris, London and New York. Louis Cartier designed the Santos in 1904 for the aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont, who wanted to read the time without taking his hands off the controls, and the Tank in 1917, inspired by the shape of tanks on the Western Front.

Jeanne Toussaint, director of fine jewellery from 1933, made the panther a Cartier emblem. In 1969 Aldo Cipullo designed the Love bracelet, followed in the 1970s by the nail bracelet later relaunched as Juste un Clou. In the 1970s the Les Must de Cartier line brought the house to a wider audience with leather goods, lighters and more accessible jewellery.

The pieces most often asked about

• Love bracelet: the screw-fastened oval of 1969.
• Juste un Clou: a nail bent into a bracelet, ring or earring.
• Trinity: three interlaced bands in three golds, from 1924.
• Panthère: jewellery and watches inspired by the panther.
• Tank: the rectangular watch, in many forms including the Louis, Must and Française.
• Santos: the square watch with exposed screws.
• Must de Cartier: leather goods and accessories, often in Bordeaux. We currently have a Must de Cartier long bifold wallet in Bordeaux.

Metals and materials

Cartier jewellery is made primarily in 18-carat yellow, white and rose gold and in platinum, often set with diamonds or coloured stones. Watches use steel, gold and platinum, and some recent models use ADLC coatings and other materials.

What we look at in pre-loved Cartier

Our specialists examine:

1. Metal and weight: consistent with the piece and its size.
2. Construction: precision of motifs, clasps and settings.
3. Engravings: signature, metal mark, size and serial.
4. Stones: quality and security.
5. Watches: case, dial, movement, reference and serial.

Read what we check on a Love bracelet.

Caring for Cartier

• Clean gold jewellery with warm water, mild soap and a soft brush.
• Have diamond settings checked periodically.
• Store pieces separately to avoid scratches.
• Keep watches serviced at the recommended intervals.

Cartier at Encore Luxe

Cartier pieces join the shop as they are authenticated. See our Cartier page.

Choosing pre-loved Cartier

For bracelets, size comes first. The Love bracelet and Juste un Clou are rigid forms that sit close to the wrist, so a centimetre makes a real difference to how they wear. Our listings give the size of every piece, and our client team can help you choose.

Next, consider gold. Cartier's yellow gold is warm and classic, white gold is cool and pairs naturally with diamonds, and rose gold has a soft, flattering warmth. Many people mix them, as the Trinity ring does.

Then think about model. Many Cartier designs come in a classic and a small model, and with or without diamonds. The small models are finer and stack easily; the classics have more presence.

Condition matters less on gold than on leather, but we still describe it carefully. Fine surface scratches are normal on polished gold that has been worn. Dents, worn engraving and loose stones are not, and our listings always describe them. We also note any polishing or resizing we can see.

For watches, our listings give case size and describe the case, dial, crystal, strap or bracelet and movement, along with any service history.

The language of Cartier

Juste un Clou means "just a nail". Panthère is the panther motif. Must de Cartier is the house's line of leather goods and accessories. Au 750 marks 18-carat gold. Pavé describes diamonds set closely together. Our glossary explains these and more.

Related: Love bracelet · Juste un Clou · Tiffany & Co.

Encore Luxe is an independent retailer and is not affiliated with Cartier.