How to authenticate a Hermès Kelly

The Kelly is the older sister of the Birkin, and in some ways a harder bag to make well. Its single handle must be perfectly balanced, its flap must close cleanly over the strap, and in the Sellier version its exterior seams leave nowhere to hide. Our specialists examine a Kelly with the same principle we apply to every piece: everything must be consistent with everything else. This guide sets out what we check. It explains our approach and is not a substitute for an in-person inspection.

For general information only. Please have any Kelly authenticated by a specialist.

1. Sellier or Retourne

Start by establishing which Kelly you are looking at.

• Sellier Kellys are stitched on the outside, with sharp, defined edges and a rigid structure. They stand straight and hold their lines.
• Retourne Kellys are stitched inside out and then turned, giving rounded seams and a softer silhouette that relaxes with use.

A bag described as one but built as the other needs explaining. We confirm that construction, leather and shape all suit the style.

2. Shape and balance

The Kelly's trapezoid shape should be symmetrical. The flap sits squarely over the front, the strap passes neatly through the turn-lock plate, and the handle rises centrally without leaning. On a Sellier Kelly the base and sides should be crisp. On a Retourne the softness should be even, not lopsided.

3. Handle

The handle is a small masterpiece: rolled leather built over a core, stitched by hand and attached with metal hardware at each end. We look at the evenness of the roll, the neatness of the stitching and the way it is fixed. A wobbly, flattened or unevenly stitched handle deserves careful attention, though honest wear from years of carrying is normal.

4. Saddle stitching

As on all Hermès leather goods, the stitching should be done by hand with two needles: slightly slanted, evenly spaced and consistently tensioned, with tiny natural irregularities and neat finishing where each seam ends. On a Sellier Kelly, the exterior seams are the clearest view of the artisan's work.

5. Edges

Painted and polished edges should be smooth and even in colour. We distinguish honest wear, which is common at corners and the handle, from poor original finishing.

6. Heat stamp and blindstamp

Under the flap, the heat stamp should be crisp and evenly spaced, with the right finish for the hardware. The blindstamp, which shows the year letter and the artisan or workshop mark, should be present where expected for the era and consistent with the rest of the bag. See our Hermès blindstamps guide.

7. Turn-lock and hardware

The Kelly's turn-lock should rotate smoothly and close with precision. We check:

• The engraving and finish of the turn-lock and its plate.
• The screws, which should be neat and consistent with the era.
• The feet on the base.
• The weight and finish of all hardware, and plating wear that matches the bag's general condition.

8. Padlock, keys, clochette and strap

Where present, the padlock and keys should share a number and work together, and the clochette should be finished by hand. If the Kelly comes with a shoulder strap, we check its leather, stitching and hardware against the bag.

9. Interior

We look at the lining, pockets and stitching inside, and at the condition of the inner flap.

10. Accompaniments

Dust bag, box, rain cover and receipt are noted but never relied upon.

What we do

Every Kelly we offer has been examined by our specialists against all of the above and more, with a second review for anything complex or rare. If we are not certain, we do not offer the bag.

Read next: The Hermès Kelly guide · Hermès Birkin authentication · How we authenticate

This guide is for general information and is not a substitute for professional authentication. Encore Luxe is an independent retailer and is not affiliated with Hermès.