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The Hermès Kelly

By the Encore Luxe specialists · Updated October 2026

The Kelly is the quieter of Hermès's two great bags, and in many ways the more elegant. Its single handle, trapezoid shape and flap that closes cleanly over the strap give it a composure the Birkin, its younger sibling, deliberately relaxes. This guide explains the Kelly's history, the difference between its two constructions, its sizes and leathers, and how to care for one.

Key facts

Origin 1930s, as the sac à dépêches
Named after Grace Kelly; name formally adopted 1977
Construction Sellier (exterior stitching) or Retourne (stitched inside out)
Signature details Single handle, trapezoid shape, turn-lock, strap through the lock plate, padlock and clochette
Familiar sizes 20, 25, 28, 32, 35, 40; also Mini, Pochette and others
Common leathers Epsom, Togo, Clémence, Box, Swift; exotics
Shoulder strap Usually included, detachable

From saddle bag to Kelly

Hermès's roots are in saddlery, and the Kelly descends from a saddle-bag design the house made for riders. In the 1930s, Robert Dumas reworked it into a handbag, the sac à dépêches. In the 1950s, Grace Kelly, by then Princess of Monaco, was photographed holding one in front of her, and the bag became forever associated with her. Hermès formally renamed it the Kelly in 1977.

Sellier and Retourne

The Kelly is made in two constructions, and understanding the difference is the key to choosing one.

Sellier (saddler) Kellys are stitched on the outside, the seams visible and the edges sharp. The bag is rigid and holds its shape, standing tall with defined lines. It is the more formal of the two.

Retourne (turned) Kellys are stitched inside out and then turned right side out, so the seams are hidden and rounded. The bag is softer, and relaxes with use into a more fluid silhouette. It is the more relaxed of the two.

Leather often follows construction. Sellier Kellys are commonly made in Epsom or Box, which hold sharp lines; Retourne Kellys more often in Togo or Clémence.

Anatomy of a Kelly

  • Single handle, rolled and stitched by hand.
  • Flap that closes over the body, with a strap passing through the turn-lock plate.
  • Turn-lock, the closure.
  • Padlock, keys and clochette.
  • Feet on the base.
  • Shoulder strap, detachable, on most sizes.
  • Interior lined in leather with pockets.

Sizes

Kellys have been made in a wide range of sizes:

  • Mini and 20: tiny, jewel-like bags worn on a strap.
  • 25: compact and versatile.
  • 28: a beautifully balanced everyday size.
  • 32: classic and practical.
  • 35 and 40: larger, often in Retourne.
  • Kelly Pochette, Kelly Cut and Kelly To Go: related designs for evening and everyday. See our Kelly To Go guide.

Exact measurements for each bag appear in our listings.

Leathers and hardware

Kellys are made in the full range of Hermès leathers, from Epsom and Box to Togo, Clémence, Swift and exotics. Hardware is offered in gold-plated, palladium-plated and other finishes. Colour and leather combinations help our specialists place a Kelly in its era.

Wearing a Kelly

A Kelly is carried by its handle, in the crook of the arm or, with its strap, on the shoulder or across the body. Unlike the Birkin, it is usually closed. That composure is the point.

Caring for a Kelly

  • Store it stuffed with acid-free paper, in its dust bag, upright, away from direct light and heat.
  • Wrap the padlock and keep the clochette off the leather to avoid impressions.
  • Never hang a Kelly by its handle for long periods.
  • Box calf and Swift dislike water; Epsom and Togo are more forgiving.
  • Leave handle, edge and corner repairs to a specialist.

Authentication

Every Kelly we offer is examined by our specialists. Read what we check on a Kelly and how Hermès blindstamps work.

Related: Hermès Birkin · Hermès Constance · Hermès house guide

Encore Luxe is an independent retailer and is not affiliated with Hermès.

Questions we’re often asked

Why is it called the Kelly bag?

The bag was designed in the 1930s as the sac à dépêches. It became associated with Grace Kelly after she was photographed using one in the mid-1950s, and Hermès formally adopted the name Kelly in 1977.

What is the difference between Sellier and Retourne?

A Sellier Kelly is stitched on the outside, giving sharp edges and a rigid shape. A Retourne Kelly is stitched inside out and turned, giving rounded seams and a softer silhouette.

What sizes does the Kelly come in?

Kellys have been made from tiny Mini and 20 sizes up to 40 and larger, with 25, 28 and 32 among the most familiar.

Can you wear a Kelly on the shoulder?

Most Kellys come with a detachable shoulder strap, so they can be carried by hand or worn on the shoulder or across the body.