Rolex

Rolex built its name on reliability. From the first waterproof Oyster case to the self-winding Perpetual rotor and the first wristwatch to show the date in a window, its innovations were designed to make a watch more robust, more accurate and easier to live with. That philosophy, combined with a design language that has changed only gradually over the decades, explains why a Rolex from the 1960s and one made last year are so recognisably related. This guide introduces the house, its key innovations and models, and what our specialists look at in a pre-owned Rolex.

Key facts

Founded	1905, London
Founders	Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis
Headquarters	Geneva
Key innovations	Oyster case (1926), Perpetual rotor (1931), Datejust date window (1945)
Icons	Datejust, Submariner, Daytona, GMT-Master II, Day-Date, Explorer, Oyster Perpetual
Metals	Oystersteel, Rolesor, 18k yellow, white and Everose gold, platinum

A short history

Hans Wilsdorf founded the company in London in 1905 with his brother-in-law Alfred Davis, importing Swiss movements and fitting them into cases. He registered the name Rolex in 1908, chosen to be short and easy to say in any language. After the First World War the company moved to Geneva.

In 1926 Rolex introduced the Oyster, a waterproof case, and proved it the following year when Mercedes Gleitze swam the English Channel wearing one. In 1931 came the Perpetual rotor, a self-winding mechanism. In 1945 the Datejust brought the date window. The 1950s produced the professional watches: the Submariner, the GMT-Master and the Explorer. The Cosmograph Daytona followed in 1963.

The models most often asked about

• Datejust: the classic everyday watch with a date and Cyclops lens.
• Submariner: the defining dive watch.
• Daytona: the chronograph, born for motor racing.
• GMT-Master II: a second time zone, created for airline pilots.
• Day-Date: shows the day and date; made only in precious metals.
• Explorer: a robust, legible watch for adventurers.
• Oyster Perpetual: the essential Rolex, with no date.

Metals and materials

• Oystersteel: Rolex's stainless-steel alloy.
• Rolesor: steel with gold.
• 18k gold: yellow, white and Everose, Rolex's own rose gold.
• Platinum: on some models.
• Cerachrom: Rolex's ceramic bezel inserts.

What we look at in a pre-owned Rolex

Our watch specialists examine:

1. Reference and serial: consistent with each other and with the watch.
2. Case: finish, lugs, caseback and crown.
3. Dial and hands: printing, markers, lume and originality.
4. Crystal and Cyclops: magnification and alignment.
5. Bracelet and clasp: construction and references.
6. Movement: calibre and finishing, where appropriate.

Read how we authenticate a Rolex.

Caring for a Rolex

• Screw down the crown fully before contact with water.
• Have water resistance tested periodically.
• Follow Rolex's recommended service intervals.
• Keep polishing to a minimum to preserve the case lines.
• Rinse in fresh water after swimming in the sea or a pool.

Pre-owned Rolex at Encore Luxe

Rolex watches join the shop as they are authenticated. When available, they appear on our Rolex page. Our client team can tell you when new pieces arrive.

Choosing a pre-owned Rolex

Start with the wrist. Rolex case sizes have changed over the decades, and a few millimetres make a real difference: a 36 mm Datejust and a 41 mm Datejust are very different watches to wear. Our listings give the case diameter, and we are happy to send further measurements or photographs on the wrist.

Next, consider metal and bracelet. Oystersteel is understated and hard-wearing; Rolesor adds warmth; gold is heavier and dressier. The Oyster bracelet is sporty and robust, the Jubilee dressier and more fluid, and the President reserved for some precious-metal models.

Then think about era. Vintage Rolex watches, with acrylic crystals, aged lume and softer case lines, have a character that many collectors love. Modern watches offer sapphire crystals, ceramic bezels, longer service intervals and greater water resistance. Neither is better; they suit different wearers.

Finally, condition and service history. A watch's case, bracelet stretch, crystal and dial are described precisely in every listing, along with any service history we know and any parts we have identified as non-original. We also list what is included, such as box, papers, links and service receipts.

The language of Rolex

Oyster is the waterproof case. Perpetual is the self-winding rotor. Cyclops is the date magnifier. Rolesor is steel combined with gold. Rehaut is the inner ring between dial and crystal. Cerachrom is Rolex's ceramic. Our glossary explains these and more.

Related: Datejust · Submariner · Omega

Encore Luxe is an independent retailer and is not affiliated with Rolex.