The Rolex Submariner

The Submariner is the watch that defined the modern dive watch, and very possibly the sports watch in general. A black dial with luminous markers, a rotating bezel, a robust Oyster case and a steel bracelet: the design is so well judged that it has changed only in its details since 1953. This guide traces its history, explains the key features and variations, and offers advice on caring for one.

Key facts

Introduced	1953 (shown publicly 1954)
Purpose	Diving; designed for underwater timekeeping
Signature details	Unidirectional rotating bezel, luminous Chromalight or earlier lume, Mercedes hands, Oyster bracelet
Water resistance	300 m on current models (100 m on the first)
Current case size	41 mm
Metals	Oystersteel; Rolesor; 18k yellow and white gold
Versions	No-date Submariner; Submariner Date

An instrument for divers

In the early 1950s, recreational and professional diving were growing quickly, and divers needed a watch that could time a dive reliably. Rolex's answer was the Submariner, introduced in 1953 and shown to the public in 1954. It was water resistant to 100 metres, a remarkable figure for its time, and its rotating bezel let a diver track elapsed time underwater.

Over the following decades, water resistance increased, crown guards were added, the case grew more robust, and in 1969 the Submariner Date appeared with a date window and Cyclops lens.

Anatomy of a Submariner

• Oyster case: screw-down caseback and Triplock crown, protected by crown guards.
• Bezel: unidirectional, graduated to sixty minutes, so it can only increase elapsed time. A safety feature for divers. Modern versions use a Cerachrom ceramic insert.
• Dial: usually black, with large luminous markers and the signature "Mercedes" hour hand.
• Crystal: sapphire on modern models, with a Cyclops lens over the date on the Submariner Date.
• Bracelet: Oyster, with the Glidelock extension system on modern versions for fine adjustment over a wetsuit.

Date and no-date

The no-date Submariner is the purist's choice, with a symmetrical dial and no Cyclops. The Submariner Date adds the date window at three o'clock. Both share the same essential design.

Metals and colours

• Oystersteel: the classic, with black dial and bezel.
• Steel with green bezel: famously introduced for the model's fiftieth anniversary.
• Rolesor (steel and yellow gold): often with a blue or black dial.
• 18k yellow or white gold: with blue, black or green dials and bezels.

Sizes

For most of its history the Submariner had a 40 mm case. In 2020 Rolex introduced a 41 mm case with refined proportions and new movements. Each listing gives exact measurements.

Vintage Submariners

Vintage Submariners, with gilt or matte dials, aluminium bezel inserts, acrylic crystals and varied luminous materials that have aged to warm tones, have a following of their own. Our specialists consider originality carefully: which parts are original, which have been replaced in service, and whether the case has been polished.

Wearing a Submariner

A Submariner is as at home with a suit as at sea. Its legibility, robust construction and relatively slim profile make it a natural everyday watch.

Caring for a Submariner

• Crown: always screw it down fully before contact with water.
• Water resistance: have it tested periodically, particularly on older watches or after servicing.
• Servicing: Rolex recommends intervals of around ten years for current models.
• Rinse after the sea: rinse in fresh water after swimming in salt water or a chlorinated pool.
• Bezel: rotate it occasionally to keep it moving freely, and rinse it if sand gets underneath.
• Polishing: keep it to a minimum to preserve the case lines.

Authentication

Every Submariner we offer is examined by our watch specialists. Read how we authenticate a Rolex.

Choosing a Submariner

The first decision is usually date or no-date. The no-date Submariner has a cleaner, more symmetrical dial, while the Submariner Date adds practicality. Next comes metal: steel is the classic tool watch, Rolesor and gold dress it up. Then era: a 40 mm Submariner from the 2010s with a ceramic bezel wears slightly differently from the current 41 mm, and both differ markedly from a vintage piece with an aluminium insert and acrylic crystal. Our listings give case size, reference and era, describe the condition of the case, bracelet and bezel, and list what is included, so you can compare like with like.

Related: Rolex Datejust · Rolex house guide · Omega Seamaster

Encore Luxe is an independent retailer and is not affiliated with Rolex.