Buying
Buying a pre-owned luxury watch: a checklist
By the Encore Luxe specialists · Updated October 2026
A luxury watch is a precise assembly of parts, and on the pre-owned market not every watch still has the parts it left the factory with. That is not always a problem; servicing replaces parts as a matter of course. What matters is knowing what you are buying. Use this checklist with any seller, including us.
The watch as a whole
Reference and serial. Every major house records a reference (the model) and a serial (the individual watch). Confirm both, and check that the reference matches everything else you see. Our guide to Datejust references shows what a reference tells you.
Everything belongs together. Dial, hands, bezel, crystal, crown, case and bracelet should all be correct for the reference and its period. Watches are sometimes assembled from parts of different ages or origins; a specialist will spot the mismatch.
The dial and hands
Look at the printing under magnification if you can. It should be crisp and even, with logos and text in the right typeface and position. Luminous material on the hands and markers should match in colour. On older watches, ageing (a creamy tone to the lume, gentle fading) is normal; a perfect dial on an old watch may have been restored or replaced. Ask.
The movement
A watch should run steadily. Ask whether it has been timed recently and how it performs. For an automatic, ask whether it winds and holds its power reserve. Where the caseback can be opened, a specialist will check that the movement is the correct calibre and in good order. A sapphire display back, as on the Audemars Piguet Code 11.59, lets you see the movement directly.
Service history
Ask what is known: when it was last serviced, by whom and whether paperwork survives. A documented recent service is reassuring. An unknown history is common and acceptable, but plan for a service at some point. Our watch care guide explains what a service involves.
The case
Look along the case edges and lugs. Sharp, well-defined bevels suggest little or no polishing; rounded, soft edges suggest heavy refinishing. Neither is a fault, but you should know. Check the crown screws down smoothly on watches that have a screw-down crown, and that pushers on a chronograph work cleanly.
The bracelet or strap
Bracelets stretch with wear as their pins and links loosen. Hold the watch dial-up by the case and see whether the bracelet sags. Count the links and ask whether any spares are included, since adding links later can be difficult. Check the clasp closes firmly. Leather and rubber straps are consumables and can be replaced.
Water resistance
Seals age. Unless a watch has been pressure-tested recently, do not assume its original depth rating still applies. A watchmaker can test it quickly.
Box and papers
A full set (box, warranty card or certificate, booklets) is pleasant to own and helps tell a watch's story. It does not prove authenticity, and many genuine watches have lost their papers over the decades. See our guide to box and papers.
How we check our watches
We examine every watch in hand: reference, serial, case, dial, hands, movement where accessible, bracelet and clasp. We describe the condition in writing, state what is included and photograph the watch itself. See our authentication guides for Rolex and Omega, or browse watches in the shop.
Questions we’re often asked
- What should I check on a pre-owned watch?
Check that the reference, serial, dial, hands, bezel, movement and bracelet all belong together and suit the watch's era, that it keeps reasonable time, and what service history is known.
- Does a pre-owned watch need a service straight away?
Not necessarily. A watch that runs well and has a recent, documented service may not need one for years. If the service history is unknown, plan for a service at some point.
- What does polished mean on a watch listing?
It means the case has been refinished to remove scratches. Light polishing is normal during servicing, but heavy or repeated polishing softens the case's original edges and bevels.
- Should a pre-owned watch come with box and papers?
Not always. Many genuine watches have lost their boxes and papers over the years. A full set is pleasant to have, but it is the watch itself that must be authenticated.