How to care for fine jewellery

Gold, platinum and diamonds are among the most durable materials there are. They are not indestructible. Gold scratches, claws wear thin, silver tarnishes and diamonds, hard as they are, can chip if struck at the wrong angle. A little routine care keeps jewellery looking as it should and catches small problems before they become losses.

Everyday habits

Last on, first off. Put jewellery on after perfume, hair spray and moisturiser have dried, and take it off before bathing, swimming, cleaning or exercise. Chlorine and household chemicals can attack gold alloys and dull stones; lotions leave a film that clouds diamonds.

Take rings off for hands-on work. Gardening, the gym and carrying heavy bags put pressure on settings and can bend claws or knock stones.

Store pieces apart. Diamonds scratch gold and other stones, and chains tangle. Keep each piece in its own pouch or compartment.

Cleaning at home

For gold, platinum and diamonds:

1. Mix warm water with a drop of mild washing-up liquid.
2. Soak the piece for a few minutes.
3. Brush gently with a soft toothbrush, especially behind stones, where grime collects and dulls their sparkle.
4. Rinse in clean water (over a bowl, not an open drain).
5. Dry with a soft, lint-free cloth.

Avoid toothpaste, bleach and abrasive powders. Be cautious with ultrasonic cleaners: they suit solid diamond jewellery but can loosen stones in worn settings, and they are unsuitable for pearls, emeralds, opals and many treated stones.

Metal by metal

Yellow and rose gold develop fine scratches with wear, which soften into a gentle patina. A jeweller can polish them out, though repeated heavy polishing removes metal, so it is best done sparingly.

White gold is usually plated with rhodium for a bright white finish. Over time the plating wears and a warmer tone shows through, especially on rings. Re-plating is a routine jeweller's job.

Platinum is dense and does not lose metal when scratched; instead the metal is displaced, giving a soft satin look. It can be polished back to brightness. Pieces such as the De Beers platinum court band and the Tiffany Setting in platinum show this well.

Sterling silver tarnishes on contact with air. Regular wear and gentle cleaning with a silver cloth keep it bright; store it airtight between wears. The Return to Tiffany heart tag bracelet is sterling silver and benefits from exactly this care.

Settings and clasps

The parts that fail are small: a worn claw, a stretched jump ring, a weakened clasp. For rings worn daily, have a jeweller check the setting about once a year. Between visits, hold a ring to your ear and tap it gently; a stone that rattles needs attention. A claw that catches on knitwear may be lifting. On bracelets and necklaces, check that clasps close firmly and that safety catches engage.

Pavé settings, where many small diamonds sit close together, as on the Cartier Juste un Clou pavé earrings or the Messika Move Uno necklace, deserve particular care. The tiny beads of metal that hold each stone are fine and can wear.

Pieces with moving parts

Some designs are made to move. Messika's Move collection sets diamonds that glide along a track; keep the track clean and avoid lotions that can gum it. Hinged bracelets such as the Juste un Clou close with a precise mechanism that should never be forced.

Hallmarks and paperwork

Precious metal jewellery offered in the UK is generally hallmarked by an assay office, with a sponsor's mark, a fineness mark (750 for 18ct gold, 950 for platinum, 925 for sterling silver) and an assay office mark. Keep any certificates and receipts somewhere safe and separate from the piece itself. Our guide to reading a diamond grading report explains what a certificate does and does not tell you.

Browse fine jewellery in our shop, or read our guides to Cartier, Tiffany & Co. and Messika.