How to care for luxury knitwear

Good knitwear lasts for years if it is washed rarely, dried flat and stored folded. Most damage comes from three things: heat and agitation in the wash, which felt and shrink wool; hanging, which stretches shoulders out of shape; and moths, which eat natural fibres in storage. This guide covers wool, lambswool, cashmere and cotton knits such as the Stone Island crewnecks we sell.

Check the label and the fibre

Look at the care label and the composition first. Cotton knits are generally the most forgiving. Wool and cashmere need cool water and very little agitation. Blends behave like their most delicate fibre. Garment-dyed knits, a Stone Island speciality, can release a little colour in early washes, so wash them separately.

Washing

• Wash less often. Airing a jumper overnight removes most odours. Wash when it is actually dirty.
• Hand wash or a wool cycle. Use cool or lukewarm water and a wool or cashmere detergent. Turn the jumper inside out.
• Don't soak for long, don't rub. Gently squeeze the suds through, then rinse in water of the same temperature. A sudden change of temperature encourages felting.
• Never wring. Roll the jumper in a clean towel and press to remove water.

Drying

Dry flat on a towel or mesh rack, reshaping the body, cuffs and neckline while damp. Keep it away from radiators and direct sun, which can shrink fibres and fade colour. Do not tumble dry wool or cashmere unless the label specifically allows it.

Pilling

Pilling, the small balls of fibre that form where a garment rubs, is normal on soft wool and cashmere and is not a sign of poor quality on its own. Remove pills with a cashmere comb or a fabric shaver used lightly on a flat surface. Do not pull them off by hand, which draws out more fibre.

Storage and moths

Store knitwear folded, never on a hanger. Make sure it is clean before storing it: clothes moth larvae are drawn to natural fibres, especially where there are traces of skin oils or food. Cotton storage bags, cedar blocks or lavender sachets, and regularly disturbing the contents of drawers all help. If you find moth damage, isolate the garment and treat the rest of the drawer.

Badges, patches and trims

Remove detachable badges, such as the Stone Island compass badge held by two buttons, before washing. It protects the badge and the fabric around it. Leather patches and suede elbow pads should be kept out of water where possible.

Small repairs

A snag can usually be pulled back through to the inside with a crochet hook. Small holes are best mended early by an invisible mender. A loose seam or cuff is a quick job for a tailor.

Fibre by fibre

Cotton knits tolerate a cool machine wash on a gentle cycle best, but still dry flat to keep their shape. Lambswool and merino are springy and recover well from wear, but felt quickly with heat. Cashmere is the softest and the most delicate; it softens further with careful washing, but is the most prone to pilling and moth damage. Technical and treated knits, including some with coatings or special dyes, should only ever be cleaned exactly as the label says.

Related reading

See how we authenticate Stone Island, our down jacket care guide and how we grade condition. Browse our pre-loved clothing, including the Stone Island taupe crewneck and the Stone Island pale blue crewneck.