How did the Hermès Birkin get its name?

The bag is named after the actress and singer Jane Birkin, who met Hermès chief executive Jean-Louis Dumas on a flight in 1984 and described the bag she wished existed. He sketched it, and Hermès made it.

What sizes does the Birkin come in?

The core sizes are 25, 30, 35 and 40, measured in centimetres across the base. Smaller and larger versions, including the 20 and the travel-sized HAC, have also been made.

What is the most practical leather for a Birkin?

Togo and Epsom are the most hard-wearing. Togo hides small marks in its grain, while Epsom is light, rigid and resistant to scratches.

What is the difference between a Birkin and a Kelly?

A Birkin has two handles and an open flap secured by straps, which makes it easy to get in and out of. A Kelly has a single handle, a flap that closes over the strap, and usually a shoulder strap.

Models

The Hermès Birkin

By the Encore Luxe specialists · Updated October 2026

Few objects have become as well known as the Birkin, and fewer still have earned it through craftsmanship. Each bag is made from start to finish by a single artisan in a Hermès workshop in France, stitched by hand and finished over many hours. This guide explains where the Birkin came from, the sizes, leathers and hardware you will meet, and how to keep one beautiful.

Key facts


Introduced	1984
Named after	Jane Birkin
Designer	Jean-Louis Dumas, Hermès
Ancestor	The Haut à Courroies (HAC)
Construction	Hand saddle stitch by a single artisan, France
Core sizes	25, 30, 35, 40
Common leathers	Togo, Epsom, Clémence, Swift; exotics
Hardware	Gold-plated, palladium-plated, rose gold, brushed and others
Closure	Two straps over the flap, turn-lock, padlock and keys in a clochette

A conversation on a flight

In 1984, Jane Birkin found herself seated beside Jean-Louis Dumas, then chief executive of Hermès, on a flight from Paris to London. The contents of her straw basket spilled, and she remarked that she could not find a leather bag she liked that was large enough for a young mother's needs. Dumas sketched a bag on the spot, and Hermès made it. It took her name.

The bag drew on an older Hermès design, the Haut à Courroies, a tall bag originally made to carry a saddle, but it was made more supple, more open and easier to use.

Anatomy of a Birkin

Two rolled handles rising from the body, for carrying by hand or in the crook of the arm.
A flap that rests over the top and is secured by two straps passing over the turn-lock.
A padlock with matching keys, carried in a leather clochette attached to a handle.
Feet on the base, protecting the leather when the bag is set down.
Gussets at the sides that fold in neatly, or can be left open for a more relaxed shape.
Interior lined in leather, with a zip pocket and a slip pocket.

Sizes

Birkin sizes are named by their width in centimetres.

25: compact and structured; increasingly popular for day and evening.
30: a balanced everyday size.
35: the classic size, generous and practical.
40: large, often chosen for travel or by men.

Hermès has also made the Birkin in other sizes and forms, including smaller versions, the Haut à Courroies, and variants such as the Shoulder Birkin. Exact measurements for each bag are given in our listings.

Leathers

The leather shapes how a Birkin feels and ages.

Togo: grained calf, scratch-resistant and holding its shape well. The most widely seen Birkin leather.
Epsom: embossed, lightweight and rigid, with crisp edges and vivid colour.
Clémence: a heavier, flatter grain that slouches gracefully with time.
Swift: smooth and fine-grained, with rich colour; shows marks more readily.
Box calf: glazed and smooth, developing a deep patina; sensitive to water.
Exotics: crocodile, alligator, lizard and ostrich, each with particular care requirements.

Hardware and colour

Birkins are offered with gold-plated, palladium-plated, rose gold-plated and brushed hardware, among others, and in many colours, which Hermès introduces and retires over time. A colour and leather combination can help our specialists place a bag in its period.

Wearing a Birkin

A Birkin is a handbag in the truest sense, carried by hand or on the forearm. It is surprisingly practical: the open flap makes it easy to use without fastening the straps, and many owners leave it open with the straps tucked in.

Caring for a Birkin

Store it lightly stuffed with acid-free paper, in its dust bag, upright and away from direct light and heat.
Keep the clochette and padlock off the leather in storage, or wrap them, to avoid impressions.
Do not stack bags or hang a Birkin by its handles for long periods.
Togo and Epsom tolerate light rain; Box and Swift dislike water.
Have edges, handles and corners attended to by a specialist rather than attempting repairs at home.

Authentication

Every Birkin we offer is examined by our specialists. Read what we check on a Birkin, and how Hermès blindstamps mark the year of manufacture.

Encore Luxe is an independent retailer and is not affiliated with Hermès.

Questions we’re often asked

How did the Hermès Birkin get its name?: The bag is named after the actress and singer Jane Birkin, who met Hermès chief executive Jean-Louis Dumas on a flight in 1984 and described the bag she wished existed. He sketched it, and Hermès made it.
What sizes does the Birkin come in?: The core sizes are 25, 30, 35 and 40, measured in centimetres across the base. Smaller and larger versions, including the 20 and the travel-sized HAC, have also been made.
What is the most practical leather for a Birkin?: Togo and Epsom are the most hard-wearing. Togo hides small marks in its grain, while Epsom is light, rigid and resistant to scratches.
What is the difference between a Birkin and a Kelly?: A Birkin has two handles and an open flap secured by straps, which makes it easy to get in and out of. A Kelly has a single handle, a flap that closes over the strap, and usually a shoulder strap.