Omega Constellation: history, designs and buying guide

The Constellation is Omega's chronometer line, introduced in 1952 as the house's most accurate production automatic watch. Its emblem, the observatory under eight stars on the case back, celebrates Omega's success in the precision trials held at Swiss observatories. Over seventy years it has taken several very different forms, from refined 1950s dress watches to the bold Manhattan of 1982.

The vintage Constellation

Early Constellations are prized for their dials and details. Many have the faceted "pie-pan" dial, shaped like an upturned pie dish, with applied markers and a star on the dial. The case back carries the gold observatory medallion. Movements were chronometer-rated automatics, and many vintage pieces were made in gold, gold-capped or steel cases.

From the late 1960s, the Constellation took on the integrated "C-shape" case, with two curved halves meeting around the dial. Day-date versions displayed both the day and the date. These pieces, such as the Constellation Chronometer Day-Date in a gold-capped C-shape case, are among the most distinctive watches of the period.

The Manhattan

In 1982 the Constellation was reinvented as the Manhattan, designed by Carol Didisheim. Its signature is the four "griffes", or claws, on the bezel, together with an integrated bracelet. The Manhattan made the Constellation a favourite women's watch, and its claws and bracelet design remain the line's hallmarks today, refined over several generations.

What to check when buying pre-owned

• Dial originality. Vintage pie-pan dials are often refinished. An original dial in good condition is the most important single factor.
• Case back medallion. Check that the observatory medallion is present and appropriate, and that it has not been worn smooth.
• Gold-capped and gold-filled cases. Look for wear through the gold layer at the edges and lugs.
• Movement. The calibre should be correct for the reference and in good order. See our mechanical watch care guide.
• Manhattan bracelets. Check the integrated bracelet for stretch and the claws for damage.

Our Omega authentication guide explains how we verify an Omega.

Constellation movements

The Constellation was always about precision, and its movements were chronometer-certified. Vintage Constellations use Omega's automatic calibres of the period, many of them well regarded by watchmakers for their robustness. Day-date versions add a day disc. Later quartz Constellations, popular from the 1980s, offered precision and convenience, and automatic and Co-Axial movements are used in today's collection.

Who it suits

Vintage Constellations suit collectors who enjoy mid-century design and fine dials; C-shape models suit those who like bold 1960s and 1970s style; and the Manhattan suits anyone who wants an integrated-bracelet watch with a strong identity. Many Constellations are compact by modern standards, which suits smaller wrists and dress wear.

Buying checklist

• Is the dial original, with the star and markers in good order?
• Is the medallion on the caseback crisp, or worn smooth?
• For a C-shape or Manhattan, is the case or bracelet stretched, dented or polished soft?
• Has the watch been serviced, and is it keeping time?
• Do the bracelet and clasp suit the reference?

Our pre-owned watch checklist covers the general points.

Related reading

See our Omega brand guide, De Ville guide, Genève guide and Seamaster guide. Browse Omega in our shop.