Van Cleef & Arpels Alhambra: sizes, materials and buying guide

Van Cleef & Arpels introduced the Alhambra in 1968. Its motif, a four-leaf clover framed by a border of small gold beads, has become one of the most recognisable designs in fine jewellery. The clover is a symbol of luck, and the Alhambra was conceived as a talisman. This guide explains the collection's sizes, materials and what to look for when buying pre-owned.

The sizes

• Vintage Alhambra. The classic size and the heart of the collection, used on the best-known bracelets, necklaces and earrings. The five-motif bracelet and the ten- and twenty-motif necklaces are the signature pieces.
• Sweet Alhambra. A smaller motif, delicate and easy to layer.
• Magic Alhambra. Offered in several sizes, including larger motifs, often in long necklaces combining sizes and materials.

The collection also includes Byzantine and Lucky Alhambra designs and other variations.

Materials

Alhambra motifs are made in yellow, white and rose gold, set with materials such as mother-of-pearl, onyx, carnelian, malachite, chalcedony and others, or set with diamonds. Mother-of-pearl in yellow gold and onyx in yellow gold are classic combinations. Natural materials vary piece to piece, which is part of their appeal.

Wearing and layering

The Vintage Alhambra bracelet pairs well with other gold bracelets, including Cartier designs: our Cartier Love vs Van Cleef Alhambra comparison covers how they differ. Necklaces in different lengths are often layered.

What to check when buying pre-owned

• Authenticity. The Alhambra is heavily copied. See how to tell if a Van Cleef Alhambra is real.
• Stones. Look for chips, cracks or scratches, especially on onyx and mother-of-pearl, which are softer than gemstones such as diamond.
• Beaded border. The perlée edge should be crisp; heavy wear softens it.
• Chain and clasp. Check the clasp closes securely and the chain is undamaged.
• Paperwork. Boxes and certificates help but are supporting evidence only.

Care

Keep Alhambra pieces away from perfume, creams and chlorine, which can dull mother-of-pearl and other organic materials. Store separately so motifs don't scratch each other. Our fine jewellery care guide has more.

Choosing a material

Mother-of-pearl is the most classic, with its soft iridescence. Onyx gives a bold black-and-gold contrast. Carnelian is warm orange-red; malachite a deep, banded green. Diamond-set motifs are the most formal. Organic materials such as mother-of-pearl and stones such as malachite are softer than gold and diamond, and need more care, while diamonds and gold are the most durable for daily wear.

Earrings and rings

Alhambra earrings are usually single motifs on posts or clips, in Vintage and Sweet sizes. Rings carry one or more motifs. As with all pieces, check the motif's beaded border, the stone and the fittings, such as earring backs.

Caring for Alhambra pieces

Take your Alhambra off before swimming, bathing, exercise and applying perfume or cream. Store pieces separately so motifs and chains don't scratch each other. Wipe with a soft dry cloth. Mother-of-pearl and organic stones are sensitive to chemicals and knocks. See our fine jewellery care guide.

Related reading

Browse pre-loved fine jewellery, including the Vintage Alhambra 5-motif bracelet in yellow gold and mother-of-pearl.