How to care for patent leather shoes, boots and bags

Patent leather is leather finished with a hard, glossy coating. That coating makes it water resistant and easy to wipe clean, but it also behaves differently from ordinary leather: it cannot breathe in the same way, it can pick up colour from other materials, and it shows scuffs and fine scratches in the light. This guide covers patent shoes, boots and bags, including pieces such as the Vivienne Westwood Pirate boots.

Everyday cleaning

• Wipe patent with a soft, lint-free cloth after wearing to remove dust and fingerprints.
• For marks, use a cloth barely dampened with water and a drop of mild soap, then dry and buff.
• Specialist patent cleaners restore shine; avoid ordinary leather conditioners, which are meant to soak into uncoated leather and can leave a film.

Scuffs and scratches

Light scuffs on patent are often transferred material rather than damage, and they can be lifted with a patent cleaner or a little petroleum jelly buffed off with a soft cloth. Test on a hidden area first. Scratches that have cut through the coating cannot be polished away at home; a cobbler or leather restorer may be able to improve them.

Colour transfer

Patent is notorious for absorbing dye from things it touches: dark denim, newsprint, other coloured leathers and even printed tissue. Pale patent is most at risk. The transfer often cannot be removed once it has set. Keep patent pieces in their own dust bags, don't stack them against other items, and be careful with new dark jeans worn over pale patent boots.

Heat, cold and cracking

The coating can soften in heat and become more brittle in cold. Don't leave patent shoes in a hot car or against a radiator, and let them come to room temperature before flexing them hard. Deep creasing across a boot's vamp is normal with wear; shoe trees and boot shapers keep it under control.

Mixed materials

Many designs combine patent with other finishes. The Pirate boots pair black patent with croc-embossed leather; clean each part with a product suitable for it, and keep patent cleaner off embossed or suede areas.

Storage

Store patent clean and dry, stuffed with acid-free tissue or with boot shapers, in a cotton dust bag, away from sunlight. Leave a little space around each piece. Avoid plastic bags, which can trap moisture and, with some plastics, react with the coating.

Creases on patent boots

Patent shows creases more than matte leather because light catches every fold. Creases across the vamp of a boot are normal and are part of a worn pair's character; they become a problem only when the coating cracks along them. Boot shapers, regular rest days and avoiding heat all slow that process. If the coating starts to lift at a crease, ask a cobbler before it spreads.

Buying pre-owned patent

When we assess pre-owned patent pieces we look for cracks in the coating, colour transfer, clouding of the gloss, and scratches that have broken through to the leather beneath. We describe these honestly in our condition notes; see how we grade condition.

Related reading

See our Vivienne Westwood Pirate boots guide, our leather trainer care guide and our leather handbag care guide. Browse pre-loved designer shoes and bags.