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Vivienne Westwood Pirate boots: history and buying guide
By the Encore Luxe specialists · Reviewed by Encore Luxe Authentication · Updated November 2026
The Pirate boot comes from one of the most important collections in British fashion. In 1981, Vivienne Westwood and Malcolm McLaren presented the Pirate collection, their first catwalk show, in London. Its swashbuckling shirts, sashes and slouchy boots helped define the New Romantic look, and the Pirate boot has been reissued ever since.
The design
The Pirate boot is a soft, slouched boot, gathered around the leg, with buckled straps. It is designed to look worn and lived-in rather than stiff and new. Versions have been made in different heights, leathers and finishes, including suede, smooth leather and patent.
Materials
Pre-owned pairs vary widely by edition. The Pirate boots in black patent and croc-embossed leather, for example, combine a glossy patent finish with textured leather.
Sizing
Westwood shoes are usually labelled in UK or European sizes. Fit varies by edition, so compare insole length and calf circumference with a boot you own.
What to check when buying pre-owned
- Slouch and creasing. Gathering is part of the design, but cracking of the leather or coating is damage.
- Buckles and straps. Check the buckles work and straps are intact.
- Soles and heels. Look for wear and previous repairs.
- Patent finish. Look for colour transfer and scratches. See our patent leather care guide.
- Authenticity. Check stamps, labels and construction. See how we authenticate.
The Pirate collection
The Pirate collection drew on historical dress: billowing shirts, wide sashes, breeches and pirate-style hats, in bold prints and colours. It marked the moment Westwood and McLaren moved from the punk clothes they had sold at their King's Road shop towards historically inspired fashion, and it is often remembered as the beginning of New Romantic style. The boots carried that spirit: theatrical, soft and swaggering.
Why reissues matter
Westwood revisited the Pirate boot many times, which is why pairs from different decades differ in shape, height, materials and details. When we describe a pair, we describe what is in front of us: its materials, the condition of the leather and coating, its buckles and soles. That is more useful to a buyer than a general claim about the edition.
Who they suit
Pirate boots suit anyone who enjoys statement footwear with a history. They work with slim trousers, jeans tucked in, skirts and dresses. Flat soles make them more wearable than they look.
Caring for Pirate boots
Store them upright with boot shapers so the soft leather doesn't collapse into hard creases. Condition the leather occasionally, and keep them away from heat and rain. Check the buckles and the soles, and ask a cobbler to replace worn soles before damage reaches the upper. See our care guides.
Related reading
See our suede shoe care guide and browse pre-loved designer shoes.
Questions we’re often asked
- When were Vivienne Westwood Pirate boots first made?
They come from the Pirate collection of 1981, Vivienne Westwood and Malcolm McLaren's first catwalk show.
- Are Pirate boots meant to look slouchy?
Yes. The gathered, slouched shape is the design.
- How should I care for patent Pirate boots?
Wipe them clean, store them separately to avoid colour transfer and keep them away from heat.
- Are Vivienne Westwood Pirate boots comfortable?
Their soft leather and flat soles make them comfortable for many wearers. Fit varies by edition, so compare measurements.
- Do Pirate boots run large?
Fit varies by edition and size system, so we always compare a pair's measurements rather than relying on the label alone.
- Who designed the Pirate boots?
Vivienne Westwood, for the Pirate collection she showed with Malcolm McLaren in 1981.
- Are Pirate boots still made?
Westwood has reissued the Pirate boot many times, in varying materials and details.